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Posting time:2025-03-13 00:00:00
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Grace Wales Bonner has been building up her women’s offer each season and it’s now roughly the size of menswear. The two collections often have similar inspirations — this season they included archival images from Ebony and Jet magazines, and projects by the artist Theaster Gates. Both collections play with hard and soft elements, and offer lots of strong tailoring. For women, that meant an overcoat studded with military gold buttons, a peacoat with satin panels on the shoulder and toggle fastenings, and a sexy black tuxedo, worn shirtless. You May Also Like Knitwear was also a blend of hard and soft as in oversize, knee-skimming sweaters that could be converted into capes, jackets and off-the-shoulder dresses thanks to a series of sturdy zips. Wales Bonner disrupted some classic styles, too, creating some sweaters with twisted cable knit patterns and others with distressing, obvious darning and the initials WB stitched onto them. The glamorous images from the Ebony and Jet covers inspired T-shirt prints as well as handmade macramé dresses and skirts with lush fringing. Wales Bonner said she likes when “one element” of an outfit is statement-making, and that was certainly the case with those swingy dresses and skirts. Her jewelry was also statement-making. It has always played a big role in her collections, starting with the delicate shell designs that featured in her early runway shows. The offer has since grown into pins with medal like adornments and a regimental feel, and earrings and necklaces with baroque pearls and colorful, artisanal beads, which she sources in Ghana.
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